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London Collections: Men Influenced By Caitlyn Jenner?
Should gender still be a conversation in a world where Miley Cyrus as armpit hair and Caitlyn Jenner rules?
06 . 13 . 15
Gender-bending fashion hits London Collections: Men Spring/ Summer 2016 and I am not just talking the skimpy Bruce Jenner running shorts (circa 1976).
Gender fluidity had long defined LCM’s ethos long before Caitlyn Jenner graced the cover of Vanity Fair. So it was no surprise to find designers blurring the lines between the sexes at the opening days of the London Collections: Men Spring/ Summer 2016 shows.
In fashion the body becomes a canvas for expression - A naked white statue, if you will, free of labels or constraint. However we limit this expression when we separate clothing into two-limited gender based categories. We are now moving beyond that androgynous look and sailing into gender-bending territory. Gender bending clothing does that rare thing in men’s wear: It makes you think, and feel.
Pre LCM the Gucci resort 2016 show hinted at this look with a kind of androgynous aristocratic glamour in NYC. The Gucci man embraced rich hues and dandy layers, eccentric prints and bold color.
Fast forward to Day 1 of LCM . Feminizing flourishes ran rapid at Craig Green with tops featuring twisted nipples of fabric bound tight with rubber bands, long streams of cloth placed through portholes at the breast, worn by both male and female models, layered skirts and quilted jackets tied high.
Christopher Shannon looped bikini tops around his models necks that were wearing sheer shirts, tracksuits and bombers. The erotically charged collection sought inspiration in hedonistic foam parties. The range was especially titillating on a brunette model wearing a sheer pink shirt and matching bikini top showing visible grey bloomers.
Kit Neale put on a kind of burlesque show filed with a kaleidoscopic visual aesthetic of bold prints and clashing colors. Punchy and billowing trousers where so baggy, they could pass for dresses. These strong dashes of whimsical dandyism added sex appeal to the collection.
There is a kind of thrill and escapism associated with gender-bending fashion. The yawns of normcore have made this a welcomed look.
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